Zang Toi’s Venetian Mystery for Fall Winter 2015 at NYFW

Zang Toi FW 2015

Zang Toi treated attendees at his Fall Winter show to the type of extravagance featured at Venetian masquerades in the 16th century. The collection was certainly a renaissance for the Malaysian-born designer, who deviated from his usual palette of jewel tones. Toi said, “I decided to surprise my audience without the signature Zang Toi colours. I decided to go with what I call a non-color color collection.”

The colours for day were subtle—muted—shades of taupe and bronze, and black, which was a nod to the influence of the artist Joseph Mallord William Turner’s Italian landscapes. That underplay extended into evening wear, comprised of sumptuous furs and jewels and a showstopping silk-screened cape. Toi was inspired by winter in Venice, which he called “stunningly beautiful, mysterious and sexy.”

But the Floating City was not just a theme. Toi spared no expense in importing silk gazar from Como and brocades from a 300-year-old mill in Italy. In addition to Loro Piana fabrics, he used hand-loomed cashmere, leathers from France, Swarovski crystals and of course, Murano glass.

Models resembled silent film stars in slinky dresses and face veils. Metallic gave dimension to the earth tones, such as a bronze lamé gown in Fortuny pleats. The last look on the runway was a spectacular silk mocha cape with the Venetian skyline sparkling on the back. It took six weeks—with eight seamstresses from Toi’s atelier to sew on the black sequins and diamonds.

The result was a perfect balance between glamour and mystery.


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