According to Pierpaolo Piccioli, the inspiration behind Valentino this season was a combination of Victoriana material and Memphis Group design. Though the two sources of inspiration seem hard to merge, Piccioli effortlessly achieved it by providing an abundance of high-neck and high-waisted Victorian dresses and the colorful patchwork of Memphis with quirky patterns that included pictures of hands and numbers. Many of the looks were sleek and loose-fitted dresses made with satin or chiffon in different assortments of patterns. One of the standout looks was a completely sequined short sleeved raspberry toned dress that had a Victorian high-neck collar, empire-waistline and patchwork of the hands and numeral patchwork that had been featured throughout the Fall collection.
Photos: Yannis Vlamos
As the audience were seated on revolving turntables, the models came out in corporate appropriate clothing that has become a staple for the Céline woman. The Fall collection included a variation of dark pantsuits with oversized blazers, nicely tailored floor-length coats in colors like pastel blue, and different types of raincoats with one that had a pattern of a map. A standout look was one of the few formal dresses in the line, which was a black maxi halter dress with long fringe at the bottom and a nude underlay peeking underneath the fringe. However, the overall collection had a serious and business-like tone, which could be played metaphorically with the turntables to represent the unending chaos and difficulty that the Céline woman faces in the workforce.
Photos: Monica Feudi
You can always leave it to Karl Lagerfeld to put on a spectacular show, and this season was no different. As the audience was greeted by a large space rocket upon entry into the Grand Palais, it became clear that Lagerfeld was going to take the audience to another world. The show then prepared for lift-off and the Chanel models came out in glittery, black-tipped space boots with each perfectly tailored tweed ensemble. Many of the tweed tunics and coats had stand away collars that were reminiscent of a space helmet collar. Some ensembles even had a padded metallic shawl or metallic skirts and pants to complete the interstellar look. As the trip through the Chanel universe got to the evening wear, many of the looks incorporated a black and gray print of astronauts or stars, or a subtly more colorful print of moons and planets. Some of the more formal dresses included lots of black sequins and fringe details, as well as a constellation of Chanel pearls. At the end of the Chanel journey, the audience was left with Lagerfeld’s vision of Chanel’s future.
Photos: Kim Weston Arnold
As Paris Fashion Week came to a close, Nicolas Ghesquière held the Louis Vuitton show in the central sculpture atrium at the Louvre museum, where his models walked through 17th and 18th century sculptures — a first for any fashion show. While alluding to the recent U.S. immigration issue, Ghesquière said “Today, when some people make us want to believe that the frontiers are stronger and stronger, I think fashion has always broken those frontiers. Especially in Paris—it’s the land of foreign designers; it’s so multicultural. Being in the Louvre where everyone is welcome, where there is no limit of culture, of nationality, is a strong message.” As the global audience gathered, the models stepped out in ultra luxe city outfits that included lots of shiny leather coats and pants, multicolored fur jackets, faux denim, and silky slip dresses. Each city look was accessorized with a low-heeled leather boot in various neutral colors. As the looks transformed into evening wear, many of the dresses and skirts included sheer panels, lace inserts, or a combination of different fabrics for a unique, and yet effortlessly chic look. The confident Louis Vuitton woman will definitely shine while walking in the city streets.
Photos: Umberto Fratini